Makonde Carving Guide: Ebony Art, Shetani Figures and Buying Well in Tanzania

The Makonde are a people of the plateau region of south-eastern Tanzania and northern Mozambique, and their carving tradition grew from masks and household objects into sculpture that is now collected around the world. Carvers work with great skill, often over many days, to produce pieces that range from small figures to towering poles.

This guide explains the main styles, where to see work, and how to buy in a way that is fair to the carver and kind to the forest.

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The Makonde Tradition

Makonde artists have long carved masks used in ceremonies and everyday objects such as combs and stools, and the move to sculpture for a wider audience developed in the twentieth century. Many carvers now work in communities around Dar es Salaam and in the south, and carving is a livelihood passed from one generation to the next, often within families. Each carver develops a recognisable hand, and good pieces show careful finishing, balance and expressive faces. Treat the carving as contemporary art rather than as a souvenir of the past, and you will notice more.

Ujamaa or Tree of Life

The ujamaa pole is a tall carving made of many figures climbing one another, often with elders or ancestors at the base and younger family members above. It is usually read as a statement about family, community and shared responsibility, and the name echoes the Swahili word ujamaa meaning familyhood, which was also a national idea in Tanzania. Look at how the figures interlock and how smooth the surfaces are. Poles are heavy, so ask about shipping and packing before you buy. See Tanzania history overview for the wider story.

Shetani Figures

Shetani sculptures are tall, abstract forms that suggest spirits, with exaggerated limbs, twisted bodies and unusual heads. The word is Kiswahili for spirit or devil, and the figures are associated with imagination and storytelling rather than a single fixed meaning. They differ greatly from the more naturalistic family groups. Many collectors enjoy them for their strong shapes and sculptural drama. Ask the carver about the inspiration; the answers vary and are part of the work.

Wood and Sustainability

Many fine carvings are made from mpingo, also called African blackwood, a slow-growing hardwood prized for its dark, dense grain. Because slow-growing trees are under pressure, buyers should ask where the wood came from and whether it was harvested legally. Some carvers now work with other hardwoods or with certified supplies, and cooperatives may explain their sourcing openly. Export rules for wooden products can apply, so check with your operator or the authorities before shipping or carrying large pieces home. More principles are in responsible and conservation travel.

Where to See and Buy

Craft markets and cooperative workshops in Dar es Salaam are a good place to see a broad range of work, while Arusha and Moshi have craft shops and stalls that sell Makonde alongside other art. Visit more than one stall to compare quality. Ask to see the underside and joints, check for cracks and feel the weight. Buying directly from a carver or a cooperative is usually better for the artist than buying through several intermediaries. See Dar es Salaam guide and Arusha safari gateway guide.

Bargaining and Etiquette

Bargaining is customary at many craft markets, but it should be friendly and fair, with no aggressive haggling for something you do not intend to buy. Greet first, admire the work, ask about the maker and make an offer in the spirit of a conversation. Be prepared to leave without buying and to thank the seller. Do not use a low price as a trophy; remember the days of work behind each piece. Handle cash carefully using the advice in money, cards and tipping.

Caring for a Carving

Wooden sculptures react to dry heat and sudden humidity changes. Keep them away from radiators and direct sun, dust them with a soft cloth and polish occasionally with a little natural wax. Small cracks can appear when a piece moves between climates, and a reputable carver can often advise on repairs. Wrap pieces in soft cloth and pack them with care for flights. Compare Makonde with the painted work in Tingatinga art for another side of Tanzanian art.

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